Libya isn’t exactly a trending travel destination. The U.S. State Department currently lists the country as Level 4: Do Not Travel due to risks including armed conflict, civil unrest, crime, and terrorism.

But despite the warning, a few travelers do still make the journey under strict conditions, including yours truly.

I recently spent four days in Tripoli, exploring one of the least-visited and most restricted countries on the planet.

Here’s what that experience was like, including how I got there with points, secured a visa, and navigated daily life in a country still recovering from years of conflict.

Booking a Flight to Libya With Points

Getting to Libya was pretty easy thanks to miles and points. I flew from Boston (BOS) to Tripoli (MJI) via Istanbul (IST) for just 40,000 points in economy on Turkish Airlines through Air Canada Aeroplan.

You can transfer points to Aeroplan from most major points programs, including:

• American Express Membership Rewards

• Bilt Rewards

• Chase Ultimate Rewards

• Citi ThankYou Rewards

• Capital One

Although other airlines like ITA Airways and Royal Jordanian operate flights to Libya, they generally don’t release award space for these routes.

It’s worth noting that Libya’s main airport remains out of service due to damage from past conflict. Flights now land at Mitiga Airport (MJI), a small air base. Most airline websites don’t even have this airport in their database, so running a search isn’t even possible… 😬

Getting a Visa for Libya

Securing a Libyan visa requires some serious legwork, but it’s doable with the right guidance.

For starters, a local guide is required for all tourist travel. Period.

There are numerous companies that offer individual or group tours. I booked with Sherwes Travel, a company that has been offering private and group tours to Libya for decades, including during the entire second civil war. After negotiating a rate, they provided the necessary documents to apply for a visa, including:

• A letter of invitation

• Guide’s name, phone number, and passport

• Arrangements for a mandatory police escort

One of the unique things about traveling to Libya as a tourist is that you’re required to have a police escort at all times. This is something that your local contact must arrange and pay for in advance. You will not even be allowed to leave the airport unless your guide and guard are with you.

The E-Visa Process

Once this is all arranged, you can simply go to Libya’s e-visa website and apply.

This part was really easy once I had all the information… but here’s the kicker: Libya has been changing its visa policy left and right. Sometimes the e-visa website works, sometimes it doesn’t. So, you’ll want to start the process at least a month in advance to make sure you have time to work around these potential issues.

The advantage of working with Sherwes Travel is that they have connections within the immigration department. Once I submitted the visa application and paid the fees (approximately $65), it took about two days for the visa to be approved.

I’ve heard some horror stories about this, though, so many people will choose to obtain a visa from their local embassy after making arrangements with a local guide.

Okay, now onto the painful part…

What It Costs to Travel to Libya

Libya is definitely the most expensive country I’ve ever traveled to.

Not because things cost a lot, but because of the simple fact that you are not allowed to travel independently, you must hire a guide, and you must be accompanied by security at all times — and that stuff costs money.

I paid $1,250 for a four-day trip to Libya, and this was consistently the base price from every company I contacted.

But the nice part about this is that it included all lodging, food, transport, security, and entry fees. Once you land in Tripoli, you don’t need money for anything.

Of course, if you want to buy souvenirs, eat more, etc., it will be an extra cost. But things are so cheap in Libya that it amounts to maybe a few bucks a day.

On the Ground: What Libya Is Like in 2025

Arriving in Tripoli

As soon as I got off the plane at Mitiga Airport, I was met by my guide and police escort, who handled immigration and customs. I really appreciated this. With no Wi-Fi or cell signal in the country, this made for a smoother entry.

It took about two hours to do all of the paperwork, which required my police escort and my guide to show their passports, discuss my itinerary in detail, and more.

Once we got out of the airport, we were immediately tailed by another police car. I thought there was a problem, but apparently, this is required for American citizens, as they consider us a higher safety risk.

Roman Ruins: Sabratha and Leptis Magna

The highlight of the Tripoli area for me was, without a doubt, the Roman ruins — specifically the ancient cities of Sabratha and the more famous Leptis Magna.

We went straight from the airport to Sabratha, which was about two hours away from Tripoli.

Sabratha was REALLY cool and a great first stop in this unique country.

The history and scale of this place are pretty fascinating, and there was a local guide there who spoke English and took me on a tour.

Unlike the Roman ruins in Europe or Tunisia, this place was completely empty. There were no entrance fees, no signs, no barriers — just cool historic ruins.

The other highlight of the trip was the more famous and epic Roman city of Leptis Magna, which you’ve probably heard of before.

This place was on a whole other level…

It was one of the biggest and most important cities of the Roman Empire, and remains incredibly well-preserved. It was buried completely underground by sand until the 1920s.

And since Libya is one of the least visited countries on Earth, there has been remarkably little wear and tear on this place.

Tripoli: The Capital Today

I also really enjoyed exploring the capital city of Tripoli. Overall, it felt quiet and subdued. The Old City is reminiscent of other North African cities like Tunis and Algiers, with narrow alleys and historic facades.

Honestly, a half-day is enough to explore basically everything here, as there isn’t really tourist infrastructure. The museums are all closed, people don’t speak English, and there are only a few cafes or restaurants.

However, the country seems to be investing in reconstructing Tripoli, repairing museums, and making it safer. I suspect in five or ten years, it may be a much more accessible and interesting place to visit.

Did I Feel Safe There?

Let’s talk about the security situation…

As I mentioned, tourists, especially Americans and Russians, are required to have a police escort at all times.

In my case, the escort stayed in the hotel room next to mine and had to accompany me to set foot outside.

And honestly? The experience felt more like a formality than a genuine safety measure. My escort often seemed disengaged, spending most of the time sleeping, chatting with friends, smoking shisha, or even wandering off, leaving me alone with my guide.

Overall, it was more annoying than it was helpful. But aside from that, I didn’t feel the least bit in danger, other than sometimes feeling a little bit tense seeing large armored vehicles and machine guns around.

Interactions With Locals

While a few locals expressed anti-American sentiment, the majority of locals were warm and curious.

Even the police, rebels, and other security forces were more interested in taking photos with me than anything:

On numerous occasions, I was told to “go back home” and to “please leave Libya now.”

But 99% of other people said things like “Don’t listen to the news, we are thrilled to have you here.”

People at shops and cafes wanted to talk to me, offered me free food and coffee, and told me about their culture, and they were just happy to have a foreigner visit.

Why the Restrictions?

So, if Libya is so safe, why all the hassle with security and visa stuff?

Well, I suspect there are a few reasons:

1. Government Revenue

I told you how expensive this trip was already. And when I booked it, I suspected it was because of the security escort, police tails, hotels, etc.

But I learned that my hotel costs about $5 a night, my police escort was paid about $10 a day, and I saw firsthand how cheap everything else was. For example, gas is $0.03 per liter.

It's hard not to wonder if tourism red tape is, in part, a government revenue strategy.

2. Peace of Mind

As you know, the U.S. has the highest possible travel advisory for Libya…

So I suspect these security measures are to encourage Americans and other Westerners to travel to Libya with a little more peace of mind.

Bottom Line

There’s a reason Libya remains one of the least-visited countries in the world.

Between the visa process, high costs, and lack of infrastructure — not to mention a Level 4 U.S. travel advisory — this isn’t a trip to take lightly.

But for those who make the journey, Libya offers something rare: rich history, warm locals, and ancient sites untouched by mass tourism.

It may feel safer than expected, but it still comes with risks. This kind of trip takes planning, patience, and the right mindset.

It’s not for everyone, but it’s an experience few will ever have.